Keeping up with appearances: The real cost of beauty
- Feb 15
- 5 min read
Updated: Feb 17
I’ve lost count of how many times I have scrolled through social media, watching a reel my algorithm has thrown up, only to realise that it’s an advertisement for a product, being endorsed by someone online that has become a familiar face.
From weight loss to longer lashes, brighter skin and whiter teeth, in the world of beauty the promise of physical transformation is everywhere. But beneath the glossy packaging, the influencer endorsements and the promise of luxury products for a fraction of the cost, there lies a darker truth.
We are seeing an unprecedented wave of counterfeit and illicit cosmetic products being sold on the UK market. Some are just ineffective, sold with false promises and cheaper price points, but some are far worse and incredibly dangerous.
As Trading Standards Officers, we have a duty to protect consumers from unsafe products, and in the cosmetics sector, that means tackling everything from counterfeit mascara to illegal skin lighteners.
Real life horror: Chloe’s story
One of the most alarming examples of the dangers posed by unsafe cosmetics was recently featured on the BBC show Rip-Off Britain. Twelve-year-old Chloe from Kent suffered devastating injuries after using a false nail set purchased from the online marketplace Temu.
During the application process, the nail glue was accidentally spilt onto Chloe’s hands. She described the pain as “sharp and stinging”, unlike anything she had ever felt before. By the next day, her skin had blistered severely. Medical professionals discovered that shockingly, the glue had burned through to her nerve endings and Chloe was urgently referred to a specialist burns unit.
To treat the damage, surgeons had to graft skin from Chloe’s thigh onto her hands. While the operation was successful, she will carry permanent scars and may never fully regain sensation in her hands.
Counterfeit Products: Danger hidden in plain sight
But it’s not just the discounted sites such as Temu that are falling foul of the illicit counterfeit beauty industry. The consumer not for profit organisation Which? purchased 34 cosmetic products from third-party sellers such as Amazon, eBay, Tiktok Shop and Vinted and found that at least two thirds of them were likely to be counterfeit products.
Trading Standards Officers: What can we do?
As Trading Standards professionals, we play a vital role in the fight against counterfeit and illicit cosmetic products. As well as posing serious health risks, just like illicit tobacco and cigarettes, they are part of a wider web of IP crime, fraud and organised criminal activity.
Officers should treat them as serious threats, not minor infringements. Many of these items are sold online, so monitoring online marketplaces (with the correct approval) for illegal products sold in your area is a great place to start. Additionally, educating retailers and consumers about cosmetic safety can help stop the problem before it has even started.
Conduct test purchases if you suspect a local retailer is selling counterfeit or illicit items and contact the Brand Representatives for authenticity confirmation.If you need assistance locating a Brand Representative for a legitimate cosmetics company, consider contacting your IPO coordinator or IP companies such as The ACG or Wri Group.
When you have seized items, consider sending suspect items for testing, the toxicology reports may be alarming! And as always, collaborating with multiagency partners like the Intellectual Property Office (IPO), Border Force and Environmental Health with help boost your enforcement team.
National Campaigns: Raising awareness
Campaigns like Choose Safe Not Fake and The Cost of Beauty provide excellent resources, including fact sheets, social media assets and multilingual materials. These can be used during inspections, for public engagement and training sessions.
Choose Safe Not Fake, launched by the Intellectual Property Office (IPO), targets counterfeit beauty and hygiene products. These fakes are often sold online or in informal retail settings, and while they may look convincing, they’re anything but safe.
The IPO carried out testing of seized counterfeit cosmetics, which revealed shocking ingredients such as carcinogens like beryllium oxide, heavy metals including arsenic, lead, and mercury and even biological contaminants such as rodent urine and horse faeces.
These products are often manufactured in unsafe and unsanitary conditions. And I don’t just mean poor working areas, think cement mixers and rat-infested warehouses. These products are then sold to unsuspecting consumers who believe they’re getting a bargain.
“The simple message for consumers is choose wisely and choose safe – think twice before reacting to a bargain and handing your hard-earned cash to scammers and swindlers” Phil Lewis Director General, Anti-Counterfeiting Group (ACG)
The Cost of Beauty campaign, led by the Chartered Trading Standards Institute (CTSI), focuses on the growing trend of DIY cosmetic treatments. With professional services often expensive, many consumers are turning to online kits and unregulated products to save money. But the cost to their health can be devastating.
The campaign focuses on three key areas of concern:
1 Eyelash Lift & Tint Kits
These contain strong chemicals that can cause allergic reactions, corneal burns and infections. They should only be applied by trained professionals.
2 Nail Adhesives
Often containing acrylates, these glues can cause skin irritation, respiratory issues, and permanent nail damage. Improper use can lead to fungal infections, allergic reactions and skin burns.
3 Nasal Tanning Sprays
Containing unregulated substances like Melanotan II, these sprays pose risks including nausea, high blood pressure and potential links to skin cancer. They are not approved for sale and should be avoided entirely.
CTSI send a very clear message to consumers through the campaign: Just because it’s for sale doesn’t mean it’s safe. Consumers must be empowered to make informed choices—and Trading Standards must be ready to intervene when they don’t.
My Final Thoughts
Cosmetics should enhance confidence, not compromise health. Whether it’s a fake lipstick or a risky DIY lash kit, unsafe cosmetics are a growing concern that demands our attention.
They are not just a health risk, they’re part of a wider web of IP crime, fraud and organised criminal activity. Officers should treat them as serious threats, not minor infringements.
Bringing partner agencies together will create a powerful enforcement team, and remember to protect your own health by handling all seized items carefully.
It’s more important than ever to educate both consumers and retailers, raising awareness to ensure that beauty remains safe, legal and ethical.
Further Reading:
At least two thirds of cosmetics we bought from online marketplaces are likely counterfeits – Which?
Comments